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I’m in a stranger’s house, sipping Moroccan mint tea and eating hot, just-off-the-stove bread while gazing at the snow-capped mountains surrounding the Berber village of Imlil.
We arrive at Aisha’s house in the settlement of Arghan during our three-hour tea and breadmaking walk through the valley, passing fields of walnut, apple, and cherry trees, mud-built homes, and boys in djellabas playing by mountain streams.
This valley in the High Atlas Mountains contrasts sharply with the bustle of Marrakech, just 60 km away. At 1800 meters, life is simple—there are no large stores or modern coffee shops. Local hookah cafes, simple eateries with tajines on display, and handicraft stores line the road where cars stop to drop travellers.
The rest of the journey into the mountain is made on foot. Muleteers with their mules carry luggage and backpacks to the lodges, B&Bs, and homestays dotted across the valley, mainly for those attempting to climb Mount Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak at 4167m.
Kasbah du Toubkal is on the foothills of Mount Toubkal
Radhika Aligh
Our visit to Imlil, however, is a relaxed one, with medium-difficulty hikes and no attempts at conquering the summit. A 1km climb from the road takes us to the recently restored Kasbah du Toubkal. We are visiting the award-winning lodge set in the magnificent landscape on the foothills of Toubkal, two years after the devastating 2023 earthquake that claimed many lives and destroyed several homes in the Atlas Mountains. Although Imlil was largely unaffected, the old part of the kasbah, built on the original foundation, was destroyed.
Community tourism at its best
Ever since the inception of the Kasbah some three decades ago, its primary purpose has been to benefit the local community and give back to the people of Imlil. So when it came to rebuilding after the earthquake, the community was at the forefront of decision-making.
Eighteen traditionally decorated suites and apartments are discreetly situated across the hilltop area, offering stunning views of the valley and the surrounding mountains. The rooms are all built using Berber techniques and local materials such as adobe, mud and wood. Soft furnishings are a mix of colourful kilims handmade in the area.
A local woman making fresh bread at Kasbah du Toubkal
Radhika Aligh
The lodge employs 34 staff, all of whom come from neighbouring villages, promoting local employment. Every guide and muleteer used on a freelance basis is also from in and around Imlil, making every excursion a passionate telling of tales about their childhood and neighbours. The hospitality at the kasbah prides itself on this authenticity. There is no pretence to be anything other than a true Berber experience.
All guests staying at the Kasbah are charged a 5% surcharge on top of their bill, which goes to the Imlil Community Association. The accommodation levy helps fund several projects, including the education of women and girls, operating the village’s only ambulance and a rubbish disposal system. Other projects include a fair wage for all muleteers and veterinary service for the miles.
With no television and little to no wi-fi signal in our suite, it was a complete digital detox. We woke up to the sound of gushing water from the waterfall opposite our balcony and spent the days exploring the surrounding landscape. Afternoons were spent lazing on the sun-soaked, terracotta-coloured terrace with a cup of Moroccan tea, looking at the expanse of the valley.
Views from the village of Arghan in Imlil Valley
Radhika Aligh
The Kasbah offers a variety of experiences, from local village tours that include tea and bread making to more advanced treks, including a climb to Mount Toubkal. Friendly faces at the reception help you create an itinerary tailored to your fitness level, interests and time.
With our friendly guide, Mohammed, who grew up just a 10-minute walk from the Kasbah, we hiked up the Tidli forest route. The 5-hour loop took us through pine and juniper trees, reaching the Tidli plateau, where we stopped for a traditional three-course Berber lunch cooked and served in the breathtaking vistas of Toubkal National Park’s towering peaks. On our descent, we got a glimpse of Berber life in the villages of Armed and Achain before passing by a cascading waterfall and eventually back to the lodge.
You can alter the route and climb further up to Isk Summit at around 2500m or through Ait Mizane Valley towards the Toubkal refuges to the shrine of Sidi Chamharouch, a sacred destination frequented by Muslim pilgrims seeking healing, exorcism, and blessings.
Our guide Muhammed pours a mint tea at Aisha’s house
Radhika Aligh
Full-day trekkers can also rest their feet at Azzaden Lodge in the village of Aït Aïssa in the Azzaden Valley. Owned by the Kasbah, the traditional Berber accommodation is a six-hour hike away and offers four en-suite rooms, a hammam and unparalleled views of Toubkal Massif.
Apart from hiking, there are plenty of local activities in and around Imlil. The tiny market on the street is filled with souvenir stores selling Moroccan kilims, argan oil and pottery. For a true Berber experience, head to the weekly souk in Asni, a 30-minute drive from Imlil.
Located on the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, the streets of Asni come alive every Saturday morning with a local market where farmers and traders from small villages in the mountains bring their freshest produce to sell or barter. Somewhere in the corner of a huge field, among vibrant vegetables and fruits, mules are being sold to the highest bidder. Next to it, chickens remain caged and on display for the purchasers to pick, before being taken next door to be slaughtered.
Saturday market at Asni in High Atlas Mountains
Radhika Aligh
In the adjacent field, stalls sell cheap versions of Nike and Adidas shoes and track pants for a fraction of the price. There are kids’ toys, spices, medicinal herbs and second-hand goods. Shoppers and serious customers spend hours walking down its narrow paths, where traders call for attention, often offering the best price. I spend an hour and depart after having a fresh Moroccan tea.
The Kasbah serves a delicious three-course Berber meal for lunch and dinner, along with a Moroccan breakfast to get you started for the day. When the sun is shining, lunch is served on the terrace with the most magnificent views. In the cooler days, a warm dining room with a log fire keeps guests warm and cosy.
The indoor dining room is kept cosy with a wood fire
Radhika Aligh
Each course begins with a bowl of soup eaten with a traditional wooden spoon called mgorfa by the Berber people. It’s handcrafted from local wood and has a long, tapering handle. The delectable selection of soups includes bissara, soba, and the most popular harira, a substantial, flavourful soup typically made with tomatoes, lentils, chickpeas, fresh herbs and various spices like ginger, turmeric, and cinnamon.
The main courses, vegetarian and meat, are either a tajine with boiled veggies and couscous or grilled meat with French fries. The dessert selection is often a fruit platter or fruits cooked in sugary syrup.
The Kabsah respects the Islamic traditions followed by the Berber people and therefore does not sell alcohol in the lodge. However, guests are more than welcome to bring their own and consume it on the premises.
The recently rebuilt infinity pool is the spot to enjoy the views Kasbah has to offer. Tucked away at the far end of the property, the pool area, with its terracotta tiles and mosaic furniture, is ideal for basking in the sun and enjoying the panoramic landscape of Toubkal and the vast valley that stretches for miles.
The outdoor infinity pool has views of the valley
Radhika Aligh
On either side, village settlements line the mountain slopes, like steps, offering the postcard image that makes the valley so special. There is also a hammam on site, which can be booked at the reception.
The Kasbah partners with riads in Marrakech to offer guests the best of both worlds. The vibrant souks and bustling Jemaa el-Fnaa square in the Medina are unique to the Moroccan city. Wander down the little alleyways and negotiate the best bargain, or just pick a terrace cafe and watch the world go by.
A short 10-minute walk from the square is Riad Les Yeux Bleus, a recently renovated riad that combines Moroccan traditions with contemporary pops of art and colour. Each of its 11 rooms is decorated in a different, unique style. The traditional-looking courtyard, complete with blue mosaic tiles, lush trees and arched architecture, is home to one of two pools on the property.
The riad also boasts a magnificent roof terrace where dining takes place, along with a library and a spa that offers massage and hammam.